This wooded area known as 'La Prairie' is just off the parking lot and seemed to be ignored by most people, which is a shame as it is the very spot where Monet painted several canvases. By starting here, we eased ourselves into Monet's life and surroundings.
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If you are a lover of Claude Monet and impressionist art; or if you have a passion for gardening and rural life; or if like me, you love all of these things, then a side trip to Giverny should be on your short list. This was a perfect end to what had already been a perfect trip to Paris. I didn't think it could get any better, but it did.
To get there, we took the train from Gare St-Lazare to Vernon where we caught the shuttle bus for the short ride to Giverny. Arnaud, the amiable desk clerk and concierge at our Hotel de Londres, helped us make our reservations--just another example of the helpful people associated with a Rick Steves' tour. .In good weather you can walk or rent a bike, but April 7 was a bit early for that. But I would advise making advanced reservations for the train and transportation to the village, especially in the busy tourist season. It is also the location of this larger-than-life bust of the artist (right) which definitely captures the likeness of the artist himself as seen in this public domain photo (left).
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THE VILLAGE
Giverny is a small rural community northwest of Paris with a modest population of 500+/-.
Because it was very early in the tourist season--Monet's house and garden had only opened for the season the weekend before--our shuttle bus from the train was only two-thirds full. And then, all of those people headed straight for Monet's house and gardens leaving us alone to wander about. |
Instead, we took our time, breathing in the rural air and acclimating ourselves to the peacefulness
of the area after a week of hustle and bustle in Paris. The sun was shining, and even though it was still cool, spring was definitely in the air. Look at those yellow buds just waiting for the first warm day to burst into bloom.. Be still my heart! |
THE HOUSE
84 Rue Claude Monet
Monet bought this house and the surrounding land in 1890 where
he and his large family lived from 1883 until his death in 1926 when his son Michel inherited it. |
The house and gardens were severely damaged during WWII, but in 1966 Michel donated everything to the Academie des Beaux-Arts.
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Eleven years later a curator was appointed to oversee the restoration of the house and gardens to their former magnificence. Today it is maintained by the Claude Monet Foundation.
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It is indeed a shame that no photography was allowed inside Monet's home as the bright yellow dining room
and the cobalt and white tiled kitchen off of it are absolutely stunning--another example of Monet's love of color.
I guess you will just have to travel to Giverny to see for yourself!
and the cobalt and white tiled kitchen off of it are absolutely stunning--another example of Monet's love of color.
I guess you will just have to travel to Giverny to see for yourself!
THE GARDENS
The land slopes gently downward away from the house toward the road to the west.
It is also surrounded by high stone walls, thus forming a Clos Normand (walled garden). Here Monet established a central alley bordered by different flower beds containing a variety of flower heights and colors. |
Climbing roses along with fruit and other ornamental trees rise above the beds in tall green frames. Like his impressionist paintings, Monet did not like constrained formal gardens typical of the era and allowed the flowers to grow more naturally, in what one might call 'organized chaos.'
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In 1890 Monet bought adjacent property across the road along a stream to create a pond and water garden. This became his famous lily pond, the source of inspiration for his numerous paintings of water lilies. As a gardener myself, I can appreciate the work it took to first plan and then maintain these gardens.
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